How to Stop Fence Jumping

Basically, the dog needs to associate a negative experience with jumping up on the fence. But, this negative experience must have three things going for it.

First, the negative must happen right as he is jumping up on the fence.

Second, it must be motivational. Kinda like when a cop gives you a ticket for speeding, but the ticket is only for $2, you’ll probably wait until you get 100 tickets before you even consider changing your behavior. But, if it’s a good $250 ticket, it won’t take too many (maybe one or two) to make you stop speeding.

In other words, you must find your dog’s sensitivity level. For behavior modification, I’d tend to error on the side of slightly over correcting, rather than under correcting. You don’t care if the dog never jumps up on the fence again, and you don’t care if he has a poor attitude when it comes to it. (Unlike obedience exercises.) Bottom line is that the correction must be motivational.

And third, he must get the correction every time he does the behavior. Again, if it’s a motivational correction, he’ll only try it once, twice, or at the most, three or four times before deciding it’s not in his best interest.

What should you do? You can try several things. Have a kid hide on the other side of the fence with a high powered garden hose. Tempt him to jump up on the fence. When he does, blast him!

You can also set him up with a training collar and tab (short leash) and go out and give him a correction when he does it, but make sure you keep the dog confined when you can’t be there to correct the behavior.

At night, confine him to either a crate or a dog run… so he can’t do the behavior and not get corrected for it. (Or if you go out to dinner, and leave him unsupervised.)

Until he drops the behavior, he can’t be allowed to do it and not get corrected. So, everytime he has a chance to do it, you must be in a position to correct him.

There are at least three more ways to do this.
1.) Take a sunday afternoon. Put the training collar, and the 1 foot leash on the dog, and leave him in the backyard…. but keep your eye on him through the kitchen window. Have the kid in the next yard create a ruckus, and when the dog jumps up on the fence, you immediately yell “No, no, no!” as you run out the door, and up to the dog, and correct. (No, no, no forces him to remember what he’s being corrected for.) Even if he’s no longer got his feet on the wall, he should be able to associate the correction with the behavior (within 7 to 12 seconds after the fact.)

2.) You can get a boundary and perimeter electric containment system, similar to what Gene described. The collar will be triggered when he jumps up on the fence. Or you can do the same thing with an electric collar. Set the collar to your dogs sensitivity level (check the manual)…. and watch him through the window. When the dog jumps on the wall, you push the button. Shouldn’t take more than catching him twice before he never jumps on the wall again.

3,) The poor man’s solution is to glue mouse traps (not rat traps!) to the top of the fence, so when the dog jumps up…. “snap!” he receives a negative. This also works well for house plants, too!

Good luck,

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Even If Tempted By A Tennis Ball, Food Or A Cat!

Screen Shots Of Dogs Learning To Automatically Stop At The Curb.

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dog training, boundary and perimeter training
Imagine being able to teach your dog to stay on your property while you’re washing your car.  Or to wait at the curb automatically… even if a tennis ball rolls into the street.  Or to never bolt out the front door, again!  This tape teaches you the basic fundamentals of boundary, perimeter and property training.  But the possibilities are endless once you grasp these easy-to-understand concepts.  My parents used this video to teach their Rottweiler to stay off the carpet in their living room.  Another couple taught their Golden Retriever to stay on the front porch.  In this video, you’ll see me work with dogs that have never been trained before.  You can actually hear the owners in the background gasping, “That’s incredible!” and “Amazing!” as their dogs learn in only minutes to not run into the street… despite distractions.

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I look forward to getting a letter from you, telling me how well-behaved your dog is, and what you plan on doing with him, now that you can take him anywhere and know that he’ll listen to you. Even though I get an enormous amount of mail… keep the letters coming!  I love to hear your success stories!

Adam G. Katz
Founder of & South Bay K-9 Academy

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P.S. A very popular question from our clients outside the United States is “will these ‘Dog Training Secrets’ work on dogs that have been bred outside the US (i.e. UK, Europe, Australia)?” This is a valid question. I have many clients outside of the US.   And yes, these techniques work on ALL dogs, regardless of breeding or background.

Questions and Answers About Boundary & Perimeter Training for Dogs

Cheryl writes:

“Hi Adam,

I have watched 3 of your videos (Boundary, Perimeter & Property Training, How To Teach Any Dog To Walk On A Loose Leash & How To Teach Your Dog To Come On Command!) and I have a few questions.

1) With the perimeter training. I am using the front door. Will I also be able to use the front yard as another area and the gate into our front yard (from the back) as another?

[ADAM REPLIES:] Definitely. From the dog’s point of view, each perimeter is like an invisible fence. Once he comes up every new boundary he will wait for your release command to let him know that it’s okay to pass through. For example, if he’s standing inside your front door and you tell him, “Take a break,” he will then run out the front door but stop when he comes to the edge of the yard and again wait for you to issue the “Take a break,” command.

2) When I am trying to proof him with the perimeter training, I would assume that it would not be good to try to coax him using “Come, Louie,” correct?

[ADAM REPLIES:] You are correct. It is fair to tempt him to come into the street with anything you can think of EXCEPT any formal commands. If you did this, you would be confusing your dog and not being fair. I.E., you’ve issued a command and then corrected him for obeying you. This is not right.

So, in sum, you can say, “Do you want to go in the street?” and still correct the dog if he walks in the street because THE ONLY time he should walk in the street is if you say, “Take a break,” or “Louie, Come!” In addition, you do not want to mistakenly say, “LOUIE Do you want to go in the street?” because the dog’s name is basically an informal come command and we don’t ever want to associate the dog’s name with something negative.

3) Do I need to use the same release command for everything? I am using “take a break” with the perimeter, but what about when I want him to get up from a down/stay? I had been using “up”. Will that be confusing?

[ADAM REPLIES:] Yes. It is easiest for the dog to understand. Think of the phrase, “Take a break” as being analogous with telling your dog, “Exercise finished.” So, regardless of what exercise the dog may be doing, you always release him with the same phrase.

4) With the come command: When he has the long lead on… what if he plain takes off and runs away? Suppose I’m out in a big grassy area near our little lake… Don’t they ever just wait for this opportunity?

[ADAM REPLIES:] I hope they do. Because that’s how they learn. If the dog can still out-run you when he’s wearing a 30 foot line, then go buy yourself a 50 foot line. Or, get creative by changing it up. For instance, tie the 30 foot line to a tree, put the dog 25 feet on one side and then walk 25 feet to the other side of the tree. If he runs the opposite way, you’ll yell, “Come,” right before he hits the last 5 feet of line. Then he’ll get the correction. The point is: Don’t make him leash smart by always calling him from the same distance. Remember the bottom line/point of the long line: To teach the dog that no matter where or how far he is, you will be in a position to make him come.

In general, if you do it correctly, I’ve found that if you can get the dog to reliably return to you around a variety of settings from 30 feet away, then it won’t matter how far away the dog is.

5) I have been keeping the one foot leash on him in the house whenever we’re not doing anything…. Is this ok?

[ADAM REPLIES:] Yes, you need to. How else will you correct him if he decides to do something wrong?

6) With a problem runner/ignorer like Louie, would you really advise the remote collar?

[ADAM REPLIES:] Again, the point of EITHER the long line or the remote collar is to make it easier to teach the dog that you can MAKE HIM COME regardless of where he is… until he gets conditioned to respond. If you can just run fast, then you don’t need ANY type of long line or e-collar. The equipment you choose to use just makes it easier for YOU and the environment you’re training. For example, if I’m teaching the dog to retrieve birds and he needs to run into heavy brush, then obviously a remote e-collar will work best for my needs. But if I’m training in a regular grassy park without a lot of obstacles, then a lone line will work best. If it’s just in my back yard, I know that I can go to the dog and make him come… without ANY equipment on… and he’ll learn the same lesson, because he cannot get away from me.

7) Louie (3.5 yrs.) is still scared of my 14mth old baby. He gets up and moves whenever the baby gets near him. If I’ve put him in a “Down” should I have him stay there while the baby crawls towards him or all over him or would it be better for the dog to move away? I don’t want to risk any snapping or biting.”

[ADAM REPLIES:] Boy… must be an ugly kid!!! (Just kidding.)

DO NOT make the dog stay next to the child. This would be courting disaster. You can not MAKE the dog feel comfortable with your child. Perhaps he will, when the child gets older

In the meantime, keep a very close eye on the dog when you’re with him and the child. Never leave them together unsupervised.